A Tough Call at 8320m: Choosing Safety Over Summit Glory on K2
Alessandra Pepper • August 22, 2024

At 8320m on K2 I had a decision to make. I had been climbing without oxygen from 7350m and I was cooked. I knew that it would take me around 6-8 hours to reach the summit at the pace I was going. That meant summiting at 4pm to 6pm which was dangerously late. The summit is only half way.

I made the decision to use the spare bottle of oxygen Mikel was carrying to safely summit and return to camp. I could have chosen to just turn around and not use oxygen at all. I was disappointed to not achieve my goal of a no o2 summit. However I don’t regret the choice I made. I now know the rest of the route to the top for next time. Mikel added another K2 summit to his resume! We had an awesome view and we got to celebrate the summit together. Oh and we got fireworks when we arrived back at Base Camp! ~ AP

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By Hayley Livesey July 2, 2025
Nanga Parbat continues to test every ounce of Allie’s courage and endurance as she moves closer to her goal of another 8,000m summit – without supplemental oxygen. Her recent updates from the mountain capture just how demanding and unpredictable this climb has been so far. Here’s a look at her latest progress: On 21 June, Allie and Mikel reached Camp 2 at 6,045m after nearly 11 grueling hours on steep, icy terrain. Exhausted on every level – mentally, physically and emotionally – they also faced a terrifying close call when a massive boulder broke free 800m above them. Miraculously, it missed them, but a smaller rock struck Allie’s arm, leaving her bruised but undeterred. The next day, 22 June, they climbed higher to 6,400m, but made the smart decision to turn back and rest rather than risk pushing too hard before the final summit bid. On 23 June, the descent back to Base Camp turned into its own adventure. Frozen ropes, sharp rock and a cut rappel line forced Allie to tie her rope off with one hand mid-descent – a moment that could have ended very differently. Back at Base Camp, the sudden contrast of green grass, birdsong and flowers felt almost dreamlike after so many days in the harsh, exposed world above. On 25 June, Allie shared a raw reflection about the mindset that keeps her moving forward: “Even though it’s hard AF here on the mountain, after doing a hard thing, I feel amazing. Just because it’s hard and scary doesn’t mean I will run away. To make our biggest dreams become reality we have to step into the unknown. The more we do it, the easier it becomes.” After a short rest, the plan shifted. By 27–28 June, Allie confirmed that the rope-fixing team would push ahead to aim for a 3rd July summit, with Allie and Mikel following a day behind to establish Camp 4 above 7,000m and aim for the summit on the 4th of July. On 30 June, they left Base Camp for Camp 1, moving through worsening conditions with melting ice, waterfalls and loose rock. They reached Camp 1 in just over 3 hours and rested briefly before setting out again at midnight to climb to Camp 2 under cover of darkness – the safest way to avoid dangerous rockfall. By 1 July, they made it to Camp 2 after a punishing 9-hour night climb up endless rock and hard ice. Allie described front-pointing hundreds of metres up the steep face as “extremely painful” but was relieved to tick off this critical stretch. And on 2 July, they pushed higher still to Camp 3 at 6,800m. The climb was brutally tough – more unstepped ice and constant rockfall meant more danger and fatigue, but they made it. Now at Camp 3, Allie is resting and watching the weather and the route carefully before moving up to Camp 4 and the final summit push. Through it all, she continues to remind us what resilience really looks like – facing danger, discomfort and fear head-on, yet still holding onto her vision and purpose. Allie will share more as she pushes for the summit in the days ahead. Thank you for following and supporting her journey to stand on top of Nanga Parbat. Stay tuned – and keep sending her your good energy! 💙🏔️✨
By Hayley Livesey June 25, 2025
Allie Pepper is currently deep into her Nanga Parbat expedition - and what a journey it has already been. Over the past week, she’s pushed through extreme physical and mental challenges, dangerous moments, and the relentless demands of one of the world’s hardest 8000m peaks. Here’s her latest update from the mountain: First Steps Towards Base Camp On 16 June, after a long 19-hour journey to Chillas and just 4 hours of sleep, Allie and the team set out on foot towards Base Camp. They trekked 10.85 km with 1247m of ascent through dry, arid landscapes where even the local farmers manage to grow crops in harsh conditions. The camp for the night was at 2800m altitude - still below the mountain, but getting closer. Arrival at Base Camp (17 June) The following day, Allie and the team made the final approach to Base Camp at 4235m. The trek was beautiful - forest paths, streams, green grass, and wildflowers gave way to a stunning base below the towering Nanga Parbat massif, which rises nearly 4000m above them. “This is the best Base Camp I have been to,” Allie reported. The grassy base offers a great environment for recovery between rotations on the mountain. Pushing Higher: Camps 1 & 2 On 20 June, Allie climbed to Camp 1 at 4910m, moving across a glacier under bright blue skies. From there, she continued to Camp 2 at 6045m on 21 June - a demanding 10+ hour climb through steep ice and rock. “It was so hard,” Allie wrote. “I am absolutely exhausted on every level - mentally, physically, emotionally. We also had a dangerous incident… I can’t even explain.” Safety always comes first, and she wisely chose to rest and recover before attempting to go higher. Rockfall & Danger on the Mountain On 22 June, the mountain threw yet another test their way: a massive boulder fell 800m above them, sending debris their way. “I was certain we were dead,” Allie shared. Miraculously, the team was unharmed apart from Allie’s sore arm. They pushed on to 6400m before deciding not to go further and risk unnecessary fatigue ahead of the summit push. An Epic Descent The descent on 23 June proved as dangerous as the climb up. Frozen ropes, cut lines, and razor-sharp rock demanded total focus: “At the base of the wall, I noticed my rope had been cut - I managed to tie it into an old rope with one hand, avoiding a 1000m fall. We had 100m rappels with stuck ropes… finally, at 8:30am, we made it to Camp 1 - safe, but it wasn’t easy coming down to the glacier.” Back at Base Camp, the contrast was surreal - flowers, green grass, birdsong - but the knowledge that the mountain will demand another push soon is ever-present. Reflections From the Climb As Allie says: “Even though it’s hard AF here on the mountain, after doing a hard thing, I feel amazing. I was so outside my comfort zone but I know it will be easier next time. We don’t build resilience in our comfort zone. We don’t learn to adapt when things don’t go to plan in our comfort zone. To make our biggest dreams become our reality, we have to step into the unknown. The more we do it, the easier it becomes. You are capable of more than you can possibly imagine.” What’s Next The plan going forward: Allie and the team will attempt their next rotation at night, to avoid the worst of the rockfall and shifting conditions. Each step forward is calculated with experience, care, and respect for this incredibly demanding peak. This is, in Allie’s words, “the hardest 8000m mountain I have been to.” But the dream remains: to reach the summit - and to come home safe. Stay tuned for more updates as her journey continues.
By Hayley Livesey May 26, 2025
On 24 May 2025 at 6:26am (NPT), Australian mountaineer Allie Pepper reached the summit of Kanchenjunga (8,586m) - the third-highest mountain in the world - alongside her partner, Mikel Sherpa. The summit was achieved in extreme weather and under immense physical strain, making it one of the most intense and emotional climbs of her career. Just two days later, on 26 May, Allie flew out of Base Camp - marking the end of the expedition and the celebration of a deeply personal milestone: her 50th birthday. A Fierce Mountain With No Easy Path Kanchenjunga is known for its remoteness, technical difficulty, and unpredictable weather. After reaching Camp 3 (6,850m) on 15 May, Allie and Mikel climbed to Lower Camp 4 (7,180m) the next day to acclimatise before descending all the way to Base Camp. The return was gruelling — with heavy packs, steep terrain, and a final climb that left Allie physically exhausted. At Base Camp, the waiting game began. While several teams rushed for a brief weather window around 18 May, Allie held back for a clearer opportunity. By 20 May, conditions aligned for a summit push. The team moved to Camp 2 on 21 May, then Camp 4 on 23 May, arriving late in the day with only two hours of rest before beginning their final ascent. A Battle on the Summit Ridge The final climb was punishing. Temperatures dropped, the wind picked up, and both Allie’s camera and inReach froze in the cold. Oxygen became essential - a necessary tool to ensure safe passage to the top. At 6:26am on 24 May, after hours of climbing through the night, Allie and Mikel reached the summit of Kanchenjunga. Their time at the top was short, but the moment was powerful - the culmination of weeks of effort, patience, and resolve. They returned to Base Camp on 25 May, physically drained but safe. As Allie later shared: “I love the mountain… but Kanchenjunga was a brutal one. If it’s possible for an entire expedition to be type 2 fun, this was it.” A Birthday and a Milestone On 26 May, Allie marked her 50th birthday by flying out of Base Camp - a quiet but powerful celebration after one of the hardest climbs of her life. She also reached 50,000 followers on Instagram, a goal she’d quietly set before the expedition. Follow along as the journey continues.
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