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“20 Hours for me to make the Makalu summit 🏔️and 9 hours down. I could not have done it without Mikel and Nima. Luckily she was kind to us. Just some frost nip ❄️” ~ Allie
Another Moment in History. Annapurna 1 without Supplementary O2. 🎥 Mikel Sherpa and Thin Air Productions Special thanks to Besins Healthcare for making this summit possible
So where did Annapurna 1 begin for Allie and Mikel?
It’s hard for me to describe what it is like to climb an 8000m peak and to spend time in the death zone without oxygen. It’s a physically and mentally painful experience. Your legs ache, your lungs hurt, it feels like someone has a plastic bag over your head and you can’t breathe. Your heart pounds in your chest and you’re constantly questioning your reality – am I still here? Am I hallucinating? The simplest things like eating and drinking are difficult. Everything is a challenge. My project is to climb the world’s 8000m peaks without oxygen in record time and it requires me to level myself up to see what I’m capable of. To delve deeply into my mind to learn who I am and to push the limits of what is humanly possible.
I was a guide for over 20 years and had the great fortune of introducing people to this incredible world of adventure. Teaching them how to experience it for themselves. I’ve changed many peoples’ lives, but I always found myself contemplating: ‘how can I touch and change even more peoples’ lives? I want to guide people through my words and my actions on the 8000ers. This world record project is an expression of my own inner journey. Although many people will be following me, I’m essentially undertaking it alone. No one else can take steps for me on the mountain above 8000m. My journey above the clouds is lonely. It’s hard and it’s painful. The more I dive into the depths of who I am, the lonelier I can become. Yet the deeper we go into the darkness, the more we can shine the light of our hearts into the world when we return. In this lifetime I am meant for more, and so are you. We all have mountains to climb in our lives, and we are all infinitely more capable than we think we are. This is my true journey. This is the essence of my 14 peaks project.
A few years ago, I had a midlife crisis, I went through menopause, and I got divorced. All I had was my mountaineering and my dream of climbing the world’s 14 x 8000m peaks without oxygen. But I had no way of knowing how to make it happen. Getting to know who I am has completely changed who I am. We are beings that can change. We don’t have to live a life that is fixed or limited. Almost every day I go through a process of opening my heart and shedding my self-doubt. The only way that we can help others is to go on our own inner journeys and become the best version of ourselves. At times life can be unbearable, but nothing is permanent and it will pass. The difficult times in our lives are full of potential for learning and growth. Whilst it may feel like a storm, what can follow can be the most rewarding time of our life. Our mindset during these times is everything.
