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What It Is Like to Climb 8000ers - 14 x 8000m Peaks Without Oxygen
Alessandra Pepper • February 28, 2024
It’s hard for me to describe what it is like to climb an 8000m peak and to spend time in the death zone without oxygen. It’s a physically and mentally painful experience.
Your legs ache, your lungs hurt, it feels like someone has a plastic bag over your head and you can’t breathe. Your heart pounds in your chest and you’re constantly questioning your reality – am I still here? Am I hallucinating?
The simplest things like eating and drinking are difficult. Everything is a challenge.
My project is to climb the world’s 8000m peaks without oxygen in record time and it requires me to level myself up to see what I’m capable of. To delve deeply into my mind to learn who I am and to push the limits of what is humanly possible.
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The first time I stepped onto the summit plateau of Cho Oyu in Tibet was in 2007. It was my first 8000er, I was alone, without oxygen and no one else went to the summit that day. She either blessed or cursed me with an addiction for thin air above 8000m. From then on I carried a dream like a heavy backpack to summit all 14 of the world’s 8000m peaks without using supplemental oxygen. On October 9th early in the morning I stood on her flat summit again. This time with my partner Mikel and his brother Nima. We shared an extreme moment together and we were also alone that day on the summit, the mountain to ourselves. She kissed my left toes with grade 3 frostbite when my boot heater broke. I am not mad at her, it will heal in time. I fell in love again with the edge of life, she showed me there is more in me than I had met before. For the first time ever I descended from the summit all the way back to Base Camp. The next day we woke up, packed up and walked out. I discovered a new level of strength and badassness inside me. Thank you Cho Oyu for granting us safe passage and for activating new codes within me of bravery. You transformed my life and gave me a purpose and a passion 17 years ago. This time you showed me a higher, deeper purpose in my life. Turquoise Goddess, you are in my heart forever. I won’t let you down. To all of you who support me and follow my journey, thank you.
At 8320m on K2 I had a decision to make. I had been climbing without oxygen from 7350m and I was cooked. I knew that it would take me around 6-8 hours to reach the summit at the pace I was going. That meant summiting at 4pm to 6pm which was dangerously late. The summit is only half way. I made the decision to use the spare bottle of oxygen Mikel was carrying to safely summit and return to camp. I could have chosen to just turn around and not use oxygen at all. I was disappointed to not achieve my goal of a no o2 summit. However I don’t regret the choice I made. I now know the rest of the route to the top for next time. Mikel added another K2 summit to his resume! We had an awesome view and we got to celebrate the summit together. Oh and we got fireworks when we arrived back at Base Camp! ~ AP
In the world of mountaineering, few challenges compare to the formidable ascent of K2, often referred to as the ‘Savage Mountain.’ Standing at 8,611 meters (28,251 feet), K2 is notorious for its rugged terrain and severe weather conditions, making it one of the toughest climbs in the world. On July 29, 2024, at 2:04 PM, Allie Pepper reached the summit of K2, marking a remarkable journey of resilience, determination, and sheer willpower. Starting from the Baltoro glacier, Allie and her team navigated the challenging path from Urdukas to Concordia. Despite facing rain initially, the team experienced improved weather conditions as they approached K2 Base Camp. Allie’s unwavering spirit shone through as she anticipated the significant milestones ahead. On July 25, Allie and her climbing partner Mikel reached Camp 1 from base camp in just 7 hours and 30 minutes, showcasing their exceptional climbing skills and endurance. Their swift progress highlighted their preparation and determination to tackle one of the most challenging peaks in the world. By July 28, with ropes fixed and an extra day of rest, Allie was poised for the final ascent. Camp 3 served as the launch point for their summit attempt, and with all preparations in place, they embarked on the ultimate challenge. On July 29, despite her initial goal to summit without supplementary oxygen, Allie made the critical decision to use it at 8,320 meters due to slow progress and timing concerns. This choice ensured the success of her ascent, overcoming the immense physical demands and time constraints. Allie’s journey to the summit of K2 is a testament to her strength and perseverance. Her ability to adapt and make crucial decisions in extreme conditions is truly inspiring. As Allie and Mikel descended from K2 Base Camp, they reflected on their incredible journey. “K2 we will see you again! What a beast of a mountain,” Allie shared. We invite you to join us in celebrating Allie’s extraordinary achievement. Her climb is a remarkable feat, reflecting her dedication and passion for mountaineering. As she continues to inspire countless individuals around the world, we look forward to sharing more stories from her project “Respect Above the Clouds” once she returns to internet connectivity. For more updates of Allie Pepper’s journey, follow us on LinkedIn, Facebook, Instagram, YouTube and her website.
